Mediterranean Homesick Blues: For One Day, Simply Sixty One

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

For One Day, Simply Sixty One

Tuesday Night, I took a seat at the local pizza place, eventually ordering a slice. The reason I went was not to eat, but to watch:







I know filming a video is rather silly, but the ceremony on Har Herzl was really well done. The first part that I saw was a dance with screens to the singing of a Jewish Mystical prayer (אנא בכח) and the religious vs national elements continued to mesh together. Later, 12 people lit torches, representing the 12 Tribes of Israel. Many came from families of or involved with Tel Aviv, since the city is celebrating its 100 year anniversary. It was at this place that the festivities were supposed to kick off for Independence Day (there was a little delay and fireworks went off in another city first). From there, I bussed into downtown Jerusalem, only to find things of a different nature, such as children up way past their bedtimes, stages and concerts every few blocks, and hoards of Israeli dancers.

The Centers of it All







It was much like Purim, except that there were even more people, and perhaps because of Yom Hazikaron, it was a more profound pride and celebration, not so much the heavy drinking and fooling around I'd seen before. Everyone was draped in flags and hats. Did I mention fireworks?










The festivities were set to go until 3-4, but I didn't stay that long. What I didn't realize was that Yom Haatzmaut is really spent in one night, while the day is spent barbecuing with the family. The entire country smelled like charcoal. But I woke up early, feeling it was necessary to visit the one city I had been missing all along: Tel Aviv.

The day started out very slowly, since there was terrible traffic once again on Route 1. I made it to the New Bus Station, with its 7 levels and much cheaper but not kosher food, and explore the center of town, such as the municipality building, and Rabin Square. Bike riders and passerby all stopped for a few moments at the memorial.

The streets were really empty, I mean really, for a large city, it was disconcerting, so I headed toward the beach, where I found everybody, BBQing, chilling in the sand, etc. The weather was perfect too, as I only remember visiting Tel Aviv in winter.

Then I decided the best place to wrap up was at היכל העצמאות, which can be translated as hall, shrine of sanctuary of Independence. It was there, on this day 61 years ago (according to the Jewish Calendar) that the first Prime Minister of Israel publicly read Israel's very carefully worded Declaration, calling the Jewish State Israel.

and it was closed when I got there. Tough luck.

I had been inside a few years before, so I didn't mind so much, but it further showed how the country spends the day relaxing with family and friends (it was open late the night before). With that, I headed back to the station, and Jerusalem, on what was a surprisingly calm but proud day in Israeli history.

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