Dome.of.the.Rock.

It took almost one full month, but today was one of those days that will sit with you for a long time...

I had been wanting to take a special tour of the Old City for a while now, but there was always a conflict. The tour only took place at 11am, and even though it was a daily tour, some of the spots weren't available. Then today, Israel's Election Day, just about the only non-religious holiday observed by the state, I decided it was time. Now, there were a few factors to take into account before I continue:

1. Election Day is a national holiday. Businesses and Schools are closed. Buses run different schedules. That said, I didn't know if this tour was going to happen or not. I'm in the middle of two weeks of intensive Hebrew, starting every morning at 8:30, so sleep is a luxury I wouldn't want to waste on a day off.

2. Yesterday was Tu Bishvat, the Jewish New Year for trees, and someone upstairs decided it was a ripe time to bring some wintry weather to the Syrian African Rift. Rain was in the forecast for today and tomorrow, and the hourlies on weather.com showed high percentages of precipitation in the middle of the theoretical tour.

So we have rain and the possibility of everything being closed and canceled. But as you see in the title, the rain had not arrive when I woke up, and even though the wind practically blew us to the Jaffa Gate, and there were only five people interested in touring (my group was four), tour guides were present and willing to take us on a wonderful adventure!

As you'll see in the multiple picture albums (I took over 150 pictures), I wrote notes on post its and then photographed them and then stuffed them in my jeans. Weird, right? WRONG. The day was so fantastic that by the end it WAS pouring RAIN! This is a real blessing in Israel, but not for post its, and they got a little wet. Our tour guide's name was Kobi. Of all places, he comes from Cheltenham. I'll try to transcribe what I wrote. Pardon the lack of order, bear with me and the pictures and videos will follow:

The Armenian Qtr. is really a compound, completely enclosed by walls. The censuses always say there are 2000k Armenians when there are probably more like 800 in the area. These are ways of protecting the safety of the group.


The Zion Gate was originally built in a way to protect the city by requiring chariots to slow down in order to turn. If they're an enemy, they can be attacked from above. Now, it's the cars that have to stop inn order to make the narrow turn.


After the Crusaders left, the Franciscans were ordained by the Pope as the protectors of Jerusalem for 500 years.


The Tomb of King David is not located in the "City of David" but rather on Mt. Zion. There's a possibility it was moved during one of the exiles of the Jews. For example, during the Roman Byzantine period, the Jews were kicked out for 500 years. Things change.


The 13 tribes of Israel can be compared to the 13 American Colonies. The first king came from the smallest tribe, and a relatively normal family. There was peace between groups. Then came David, from the largest tribe (Judah) and a well to do family. There was disagreement. He decided to move the Capital of the Nation from Hebron to a smaller and more centralized and uninhabited city, Jebus. This became Jerusalem. Similarly, the US decided to move its capital from the largest city in the Western World, Philadelphia to a smaller location, D.C.


Thanksgiving is all about turkey, Indians (stick with the political incorrectness) and duh, thanks. In Hebrew, Turkey and India are both translated into Hodu, and thanks is Hodot, which is also the root of the religion and Judah tribe. The tour guide also said there were plans for the colonies to originally adopt Hebrew as the spoken language because the area was seen as a promised land from religious persecution. Unfortunately, there was no one to teach it.


The room where many believe Jesus' Last Supper took place is all right about the Tomb of David. It was once a synagogue, and then later became a mosque. Scholars are pretty certain that it was an area of early Christian life. One explanation is that this place, located on Mt. Zion was once connected by a road to Mt. of Olives, so Jesus could have used that path. The room is a big deal for Pentecostal Christians.







On the roof of the same building, one can see the Dead Sea and Jordan. There is U.N. post on a mountain that's been traditionally referred to as the mountain of "Wicked Consul." Fitting? When Israel lost Jerusalem, Jews would come to this spot and look at the Western Wall and Temple Mount (which we couldn't see because of trees), but until '67 the Old City was Jordan. For 19 years, this was the closest the Jews could get to their holiest spot.







The first Holocaust Museum was erected here by Orthodox Jews, at least 15 years before Yad Vashem, the better known one.


The Zion gate has two huge Mezuzot on the walls, and the covers are made out of melted bullet shells.


From the walk down to the Western Wall, you can see a blue looking Church, which is believed to be where the High Priest lived during the time of Jesus. There are roosters all around the area referencing the garden where Peter denied Jesus three times.


In the time of the Temple, Jews came to pay a half Sheckel Temple Tax, and make a sacrifice, depending on the circumstances (birth, marriage, sin offering, Superbowl sacrifice). Much like in the United States, where legislatively you have the Senate, with equal representation, and the House with a varying number of reps. 


No one is allowed to pray on the Temple Mount except Muslims. Anywhere. If found praying, you'll be kicked off.


Jason, my suite mate from school said the shema 13 times on the Temple Mount.


The Temple Mount was conquered by Israel in the Six Day War. Two days later, it was returned. 


Jerusalem as a whole has been conquered at least 30 something times. All times from the North except twice, when David conquered it, and When Israel did so in '67.


Sunni Muslim-leadership elected
Shi'a Muslim-leadership from ancestry of Muhammed


The largest Muslim countries are not Arab.


Dome of the Rock built ~691
Al Aqsua built  ~715


Jerusalem mentioned in the Torah 669 times. As Zion, mentioned 154 times. in the New Testament mentioned 142 times. In the Qur'an, 0. In Surrah 17, Muhammed visited the Al-Aqsa Mosque (meaning far mosque, far from Mecca), where he rose to the heaven on the stone in the Dome. He left a footprint. He talked to God, and was told to abstain from alcohol and pray 500 times a day. On the way down, he bumped into Moses who told him to haggle a little. Muhammed went back up and got the praying down to 5x/day. 







Why was the Dome built?
1. There was nothing on the Temple Mount when the Muslims came, and it's big enough for 27 football fields. The Byzantines destroyed it and left it like that.


2. Perfect place for Monotheism, prophets, since Islam follows the line of Abraham and Jesus and others. 


3. Nomads vs Civilization-built to restrain Muslims from assimilating with Christian culture and churches scattered throughout the city.


4. Alternative pilgrimage site for Muslims, outside of Mecca. In ancient Israel, the same happened as there were two kingdoms and the northern didn't want his people going to Jerusalem in the other.


Earthquakes- the Al-Aqsa Mosque in not on bedrock, but rather the lift King Herod erected. Jerusalem is on the Syrian African Rift, responsible for creating things like the Red Sea. The Mosque has fallen many times in history, as recently as 1927. The Dome of the Rock meanwhile is on bedrock.


There's a special place for Wudu, or ritual cleansing before prayer that was made in 1230 out of one piece of marble. It's called Al-Kas.


Dome of the Rock tiles are from the 16th century, renovated by Armenians in 1900's. 


The Dome has 80kg of Gold!


There's a small structure next to the Dome. Some think it's a small model but it's not octagonal, some think it's where the treasury was. The center of the structure is the center of the Temple Mount.







There are 34 Churches and Monasteries on Mt. of Olives. The golden one was built for Mary Magdalene by the Russians, but everyone knows it was for the Czars mom. The Church of Ascension is where Jesus went to Heaven, the Paternoster is where Christians learned how to pray (in Gospels this happened in Galilee), Another Church translates to "Our Lord Wept," it has a black roof and looks like a teardrop. While most Churches face east, this one faces Mt. Moriyah (Temple Mount) because that's why Jesus wept. Below view is the Garden of Gasemone where Judas betrayed you know who, next to the Church of Agony ("All Nations"). What do these have in common? They show the transition of Jesus from a human to divine figure, all on one mountain.


At the Kotel Hakatan I learned that notes are collected every year on Passover and Rosh Hashana and buried in Mt. of Olives. 







You can climb to the tower of the Church of the Redeemer from 8:30-15:30 (but not 13:00-13:30) for 3 sheckel if you're a student.


Constantine's wife, Queen Helena found the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in 335.

The Protestants go to the Garden Tomb near the Damascus Gate for the place where Jesus died. The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is divided between (in ranking order):
Greek Orthodox
Roman Catholics
Armenians
Coptics
Syrian Orthodox
Ethiopians (who take care of the roof)


There are 6 chapels inside. These groups fight over everything, even who owns which stone, and operation hours. That's why Salah al'Din decided to have a Muslim family open and close the church. It's still done at 5:00 and 21:00. 


The Chapel of Adam, located inside, was once controlled by the Roman Catholics, and Crusader kings were buried there. But due to a fire? it was returned to the Greek Orthodox who kindly removed all the bones. Golgotha can been seen from in the chapel (a place where the skull of Adam is believed to be, and tradition has it that Jesus was crucified above the skull).


Stone of Unction, where Jesus was anointed after being taken from the cross, but it's really the stone under the stone everyone visits.


The mosaic done in front of the Armenian area next to the Stone of Unction was done by a Jewish artist.


An area in the back is shared by the Armenians and the Syrian Orthodox, but neither knows who it belongs to. Crusaders are buried next to it. 


Chapel of the Finding of the New Cross is the oldest part of the Church. 


3rd Temple Analogies- chambers like in Jewish Temple, references to Adam and Abraham, ritual done once a year, notes put in the walls, two gate entrance like messianic Golden Gate.


Holy City Tour Pictures
part 1
part 2
part 3

Two more lookouts from campus...