Out of the mountains, enter Marrakesh, the "Red City" of 2.3 million people, once of 36k Jews, now 240. Marrakesh has an outer new city, a Medina (old city), and a Mellah (from the Arabic and Hebrew word for salt; the Jewish Quarter from the 14th Century). There are two palaces for the King. The centrally located Koutoubia Mosque boasts the tallest structure in the city with its minaret. Once a library, the site now holds space for 22k worshipers. The above video describes the significance of the spheres at the top of the minaret.
PICTURES OF MARRAKESH
Since it was Friday afternoon, we had lunch in front of the Koutoubia Mosque, and then got ready for Shabbat. Services took place at one of the two Synagogues in the city, and the first built in Morocco after the Jews were emancipated from their respective Mellah quarters (I believe in 1958).
Attending services was an enriching experience, because after a week of talk about the Jews that once lived in Morocco, we had only really been able to observe Jewish life on our first day. Services allowed us to witness the living traditions, and they were unique. We took our seats in the Synagogue, facing eachother, rather than the Ark. The Ark had been saved from a Synagogue in the Mellah, coincidentally right before a fire burnt down the building. The wood was etched with elaborate designs, and while it had a Ner Tamid (eternal light) in front, this was an Ashkenazic (European Jewish) custom, and not a Moroccan one. Around the Ark were large bulbs with the names of deceased relatives written around them. This was a Moroccan tradition.
The melodies of the service was monotonous but consistent. Every word was chanted, causing the group to participate throughout. Furthermore, there was only one clergy member, a Rabbi, who sat in front of the central podium, rather than on top of it. While he participated, he didn't lead every prayer. Rather, there was a pattern of individuals who led each psalm. We later learned that they were the local Jews, and the rest in attendance were visitors, like us. The order of leadership is determined by who arrived first. At one point in the service, the melody was suddenly familiar, borrowed from an Israeli song about Jerusalem from the '67 War (Yerushalayim Shel Zahav). Finally, and most unique of all of these traditions, is in the Siddur used at the Synagogue, a Prayer Book published in Israel by the Moroccan community, there was a line stating that during Friday Night services, it was customary for the Jews to pause their service before the prayer ushering in the Sabbath, until they had heard the Muezzin make the Adhan, or Call to Prayer from the Mosque, since the Adhan always took place at sundown. This anecdote blew me away, demonstrating how deeply entrenched and respectful the Jews were of the Muslim society in which they lived.
While the Kivunim presence added some life here for Friday night and Saturday, the Synagogue, and Jewish community of Marrakesh, continue to struggle. Just the last Bar Mitzvah was 8 years ago.
Saturday night we visited perhaps the most beautiful house I have ever seen. Home to the Benkiranes, Jamal, the father, is a tour guide, who received the house from his wife's family (since you must ask how a tour guide can live in such beauty). Jamal connected with Kivunim, and has hosted the program before, and at one point even allowed wine to be used for Havdallah, even though observant Muslims don't use alcohol. He insisted that wine be allowed, but Coke was eventually substituted, as it was too for our visit. Jamal plans to visit Israel and study Hebrew.
After Havdallah, Jamal's wife (I'm sorry I don't know her name) basically hosted a cooking show for us, preparing a customary dish called Tajine, named after the special dish in which it is made. Observe this special episode and the incredible house!
Afterwards, we dined at the Benkirane's, enjoying a delicious soup, tajine, and following dessert, henna! The evening concluded with a visit to the enormous and world-famous city square Djmaa El Fna, where souks begin and end, and storytellers, alchemists, magicians and soothsayers roam.
Sunday morning, as well the the day before, we dined on the roof of our hotel, in an incredible atmosphere overlooking the modern city. The smog in the streets was a little daunting, but the omelets were exceptional! Then we took off for the Mellah, beginning with the Jewish Cemetery. Notice the unique sizes and shapes of the stones, the customs, such as lighting candles instead of placing rocks, and the directions that the stones are placed in.
From there, we visited another Kasbah, this one in much better shape with beautiful gardens. Explore the details, because I can't describe them...
Continuing on, we crept through the very narrow streets until we turned into a doorway and entered a courtyard belonging to the Al'Azama Synagogue, I believe built in 1492. The primary function of the site now is to host visiting Jews. Pictures lined the walls with details of the Jewish community once active, and the Rabbis once present. Look inside:
Returning the same pizza restaurant outside the Koutoubia Mosque, this time we witness the Adhan, and then returned to the Medina with an eye for consumerism.
Before truly penetrating the Souk, we visited company that worked on herbal remedies for pains and sicknesses, as well as spices for food. The shopkeeper indulged us in the scent of Ras Al-Hanut, in Hebrew Rosh HaChanut, the Top of the Shop, in our case, a blend of 35 spices. We got samples of rose cream, and smelled seeds from the eucalyptus family that cleared our sinuses, as well as anything else in our heads. Then the shopping began, with a slight interruption by Raphy to lower all the prices previously set. It was a funny moment.
From there the Souk opened our wallets, but with ~8.2 Dirham to the dollar, everything was super cheap and still negotiable. Ending in Djma El Fna, we returned to the hotel after a long day, and concluded our 3 day stay in Marrakesh.
Attending services was an enriching experience, because after a week of talk about the Jews that once lived in Morocco, we had only really been able to observe Jewish life on our first day. Services allowed us to witness the living traditions, and they were unique. We took our seats in the Synagogue, facing eachother, rather than the Ark. The Ark had been saved from a Synagogue in the Mellah, coincidentally right before a fire burnt down the building. The wood was etched with elaborate designs, and while it had a Ner Tamid (eternal light) in front, this was an Ashkenazic (European Jewish) custom, and not a Moroccan one. Around the Ark were large bulbs with the names of deceased relatives written around them. This was a Moroccan tradition.
The melodies of the service was monotonous but consistent. Every word was chanted, causing the group to participate throughout. Furthermore, there was only one clergy member, a Rabbi, who sat in front of the central podium, rather than on top of it. While he participated, he didn't lead every prayer. Rather, there was a pattern of individuals who led each psalm. We later learned that they were the local Jews, and the rest in attendance were visitors, like us. The order of leadership is determined by who arrived first. At one point in the service, the melody was suddenly familiar, borrowed from an Israeli song about Jerusalem from the '67 War (Yerushalayim Shel Zahav). Finally, and most unique of all of these traditions, is in the Siddur used at the Synagogue, a Prayer Book published in Israel by the Moroccan community, there was a line stating that during Friday Night services, it was customary for the Jews to pause their service before the prayer ushering in the Sabbath, until they had heard the Muezzin make the Adhan, or Call to Prayer from the Mosque, since the Adhan always took place at sundown. This anecdote blew me away, demonstrating how deeply entrenched and respectful the Jews were of the Muslim society in which they lived.
While the Kivunim presence added some life here for Friday night and Saturday, the Synagogue, and Jewish community of Marrakesh, continue to struggle. Just the last Bar Mitzvah was 8 years ago.
Saturday night we visited perhaps the most beautiful house I have ever seen. Home to the Benkiranes, Jamal, the father, is a tour guide, who received the house from his wife's family (since you must ask how a tour guide can live in such beauty). Jamal connected with Kivunim, and has hosted the program before, and at one point even allowed wine to be used for Havdallah, even though observant Muslims don't use alcohol. He insisted that wine be allowed, but Coke was eventually substituted, as it was too for our visit. Jamal plans to visit Israel and study Hebrew.
After Havdallah, Jamal's wife (I'm sorry I don't know her name) basically hosted a cooking show for us, preparing a customary dish called Tajine, named after the special dish in which it is made. Observe this special episode and the incredible house!
Afterwards, we dined at the Benkirane's, enjoying a delicious soup, tajine, and following dessert, henna! The evening concluded with a visit to the enormous and world-famous city square Djmaa El Fna, where souks begin and end, and storytellers, alchemists, magicians and soothsayers roam.
Sunday morning, as well the the day before, we dined on the roof of our hotel, in an incredible atmosphere overlooking the modern city. The smog in the streets was a little daunting, but the omelets were exceptional! Then we took off for the Mellah, beginning with the Jewish Cemetery. Notice the unique sizes and shapes of the stones, the customs, such as lighting candles instead of placing rocks, and the directions that the stones are placed in.
From there, we visited another Kasbah, this one in much better shape with beautiful gardens. Explore the details, because I can't describe them...
Continuing on, we crept through the very narrow streets until we turned into a doorway and entered a courtyard belonging to the Al'Azama Synagogue, I believe built in 1492. The primary function of the site now is to host visiting Jews. Pictures lined the walls with details of the Jewish community once active, and the Rabbis once present. Look inside:
Returning the same pizza restaurant outside the Koutoubia Mosque, this time we witness the Adhan, and then returned to the Medina with an eye for consumerism.
Before truly penetrating the Souk, we visited company that worked on herbal remedies for pains and sicknesses, as well as spices for food. The shopkeeper indulged us in the scent of Ras Al-Hanut, in Hebrew Rosh HaChanut, the Top of the Shop, in our case, a blend of 35 spices. We got samples of rose cream, and smelled seeds from the eucalyptus family that cleared our sinuses, as well as anything else in our heads. Then the shopping began, with a slight interruption by Raphy to lower all the prices previously set. It was a funny moment.
From there the Souk opened our wallets, but with ~8.2 Dirham to the dollar, everything was super cheap and still negotiable. Ending in Djma El Fna, we returned to the hotel after a long day, and concluded our 3 day stay in Marrakesh.
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